And there we were.

That was a Day with capital D. For me at least, it was actually 1,5 days as I had very little sleep on the plane. Awoken by a frantic doorbell sometime before 12 on the 31st, I managed to get ready and out the door by 14. We made the 14:14 direct train to Frankfurt Airport, mostly because the train was 5 minutes late, and even found seats. We were at the airport around 5 and quickly learned that the checkincounters would not open until 3 hours prior to departure. Unlike the average Norwegian airport, where restaurants and other shops  form a considerable part of the revenue, Frankfurt Airport was pretty much in lockdown. We managed getting something to drink and a light snack before the last kiosk closed at around 18 though. Having enjoyed said light snack, we went to find the checkin counters not only open well ahead of time but also considerabely queued for already. Not sure how long it took us to navigate to the end of the line, but some time did vanish. Backpacks dropped, we  crossnavigated the airport to find our gate of departure. Having expected a somewhat open and welcoming offering of food on the other side of the security gats we were left somewhat stumped. It was not only as closed as on the insecure side, but here they had taken the customerunfriendlyness to an all new level and hidden the few open restaurants on the floor above everything else. Signs would clearly atract too many customers, so those were hidden as well. We did track them down after all and had another light and rather unconvincing meal. Then it was time for boarding already, and we found back to our gate. That part of it went pretty smoothly and soon we were seated right over the wing on the starboard side. Considering how it would be dark for nearly the entire flight that was a non-issue. If theres anyone out there with negative attitudes towards Ryanair, you should probably avoid AirIndia. Wikipedia was telling me that the Boeing 777 was in production since 1993, and judging by the thuroughly delapidated state of everything, I'd guess this was an early model. My monitor was the only one not working (of course), the seat infront was rather badgered with torn-off pockets, burnmarks and chewing gum stains. Some rather serious vibrations as the engines ran up their turbine temperatures and during taxi/takeoff and landing too. The whole plane had a distinct worn feeling to it. It was still fascinating to join an aircraft that large into the nightly air though, so many times larger than the 737-800's I'm used to. A short while after takeoff they were serving the hot meal of the flight. Never having received our preferences, they still managed to conjoure up some vegan food for Susanne. Yay them! They were also freely offering to refill our cups with water. After the eating seanse we watched Casablanca together, always wanted to see that movie. I liked it. By then it was already pretty late and Susanne managed to catch a couple of hours of sleep before breakfast. Around 8 (Indian time) I woke up from a shallow slumber as the cabin lights started coming to life. "Continental breakfast" consisted of a (still) frozen Crossiant and some soft of (also still frozen) apple pie. There were also a small pack of strawberry marmelade as well as something I couldnt quite figure out what was. All in all I found the flight somewhat underwhelming, but it got me here at least.

Now, here. The first thing we see of India is the carpeted airport. Thick wall-to-wall carpets everywhere. Amazing. The airport actually appeared rather empty, or should I say oversized. Hardly anyone anywhere. After some hallway navigation we did run into the immigration counters and cleared them without too much fuzz. Then there were the baggage conveyor belts. My backpack appeared quite fast while Susanne's needed a little time. I still wonder why mine was half covered in hydraulics fluid though. Baggage in hand, we found the arrivals hall. I withdrew no less than Rs10'000! Which actually worked out to something along the lines of 170 euros. Then we aquired a couple of water bottles and I bought a prepaid SIM-card for my phone. Ill have to use it sparingly, but Im hoping the €30 or so I fed it with will be enough for basic blogging and such this trip. We then booked a prepaid taxi to our hotel, saving us from the thousands of 'helpfull' taxidrivers standing just outside ready to explain to us why THEY were the obvious choise. We got settled into the taxi and set off for the city. The first part of the drive was more serene than anything. Well, a postapocalyptic sort of serene anyway. Construction sites and delapidated buildings irregularely dotted the otherwise barren sandy landscape. There were the obligatory cow here and there and a few people going about their business. Then traffic  picks up and all serenity would have snuck out the window if it had deared. Now, I was perfectly able to relax and leave the driving to those who knew how to, but I am very much aware of my inability to function in this roadculture as a commander of my own vehicle. That is, unless it was something very large. Bus-sized or so. "Biggest first" seems to be the only traffic rule in play next to "honking WILL get you there faster". That is, unless the biggest vehicle stops. Then it becomes immobile and an impromptu roundabout - no matter what the road authorities had considered that particular stretch of blacktop up until that point. Should you not have the luxury of driving the biggest vehicle, there is a simple secret to getting around. Do not look back. Mirrors are usually folded in (if still attached) here, and it seems to be up to whomever is coming from behind to successfully navigate around the driver in front. While honking to say that theres someone somewhere wanting to do something. Of course, noone will actually look around to see who is honking for what. Our little cab was mingling with scooters, motorbikes, pedalbikes, rickshaws, autorickshaws, other cabs of various sizes, other cars of various sizes, the random SUV (which, being bigger, was offered some extra shoulderroom), and quite a few busses. Some newer ones, some less new.

Anyway. The traffic has to be experienced here, it is impossible to convey it through words. After observing this strange ritual for some time, our taxidriver gives up trying to find out hotel and lands us at a tourist information office. Now this is where and when it gets interesting. Initially asking how to find our hotel, we end up with a somewhat reconfigured vacation. Instead of whinging pretty much everything (without either a proper plan nor the know-how), there now is a plan. A plan! First of all we got booked in at a - according to them, anyway - far better hotel in a much better area of town. The hotel here IS nice though, considering what was expected by me at least. It clean and the staff is friendly. Theres even a proper toilet here. Phew. The ride here was a little adventure in itself though, taking an autorickshaw through what felt like half of New Delhi. I got most of it on video. Later we did a look-see (mostly) by car arranged by the 'company' as it was later referred to. The driver was up to the task of keeping his little vehicle out of the bumpers of the rest of the drivers and our guide was friendly if a little hard to understand. We went for a walk on the grounds of the presidential palace, saw the India Gate, several other temples and other fascinating buildings and ended the tour at a very nice Hindu temple which name eludes me as of writing this. Metal detectors seems to be a big fad here in New Delhi, even though nothing seems to happen when they do go off. We had to leave our shoes for the temple, but somehow our guide got us into a nice guarded room where we could store our valuables - where as the rest had to leave their stuff on the street outside or at off-track repositories. Practical. After experiencing the temple we stopped by an Indian shop before trying local Indian fastfood. Both were nice, and rounded off the evening pleasently before we went for our hotel again. Now its almost 10 in the evening local time and we should try to get some sleep. Breakfast starts at 7, and we are being picked up by a car at 8. Then the plan comes into action full force. The next 14 days we have our very own car and driver ready to bring us around Rajastan as we please. Hotels are booked but are changeable if needs be. After that, a 40 hour train ride from Agra to Cochin in Kerala awaits. Then we will make our way to Backwaters and board a houseboat for a 24 hour manned cruise around the lakes. After that the journey continues towards Goa for a week of relaxation before flying back to New Delhi and spending the last few days here so we're ready for the flight home on the 29th.
Dropping Mumbai, this is actually just a recalfatration of our original route, but it takes out some of the kinks in it and saves us some money compared to randomly booking flights and trains little time in advance.

Of course, this brings up the issue of money. Having budgeted for a slow and steady loss of money over the next four weeks, we've now paid the entire trip as far as transport and stays go. It's messing up my budget a little, but I think it will work out better this way.

Now I'm exhausted and ready for bed, just uploading this first. Sorry about any missed typoes, I do not have the luxury of a proofreader nor the mental acuteness to do it myself right now.